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The Summer Wedding Suit

Friday 15th January 2016
A summer scorcher can add an unnecessary sting to the most important day of your life. Whether it’s a beach wedding, a relaxed country affair or a formal black tie event a suit that provides maximum comfort in the heat of summer is a must. Melbourne tailor Carl Navè shares four of his go-to suit constructions and cloths that will keep you cool and looking sharp.
Posted under: fashion Tagged: #grooms

As we enter into the summer months there’s a lot to look forward to, especially all the wonderful weddings we get to attend and maybe even be the guest of honour at.  However, a summer wedding, as beautiful as it sounds can be a little tough on the most important man in the room.  Some suits can be heavy and don’t allow for much comfort, whilst lighter weight fabrics wrinkle easily and don’t always look formal enough.

Farewelll fiancé guest blogger Carl Navè gives us the low-down on the best warm weather suits and quality fabrics.

The Linen Suit

Linen is the perfect cloth for that beautiful beach setting or Mediterranean destination wedding. The natural cloth provides comfort and breathability and offers rich texture.  Pastel colour linens are stunning and look great if you have a tan, but the neutral tones are the most versatile and look extremely luxurious. Although we all know linen is prone to wrinkling, there is no real way to stop this from happening other than opting for a slightly more relaxed silhouette.  A linen suit should not be cut as slim as a wool suit as it has no natural stretch and requires a little more drape to allow it to flow. For some inspiration on how to wear a linen suit check out how the Neapolitans wear them.  The Amalfi Coast is rife with well-dressed Italians rocking an unstructured linen suit.

The Cotton Suit

Just like linen, cotton is a natural fibre that provides a great deal of comfort with an elegant yet relaxed style.  There are many different types of cotton finishes that a worth considering ranging from cotton sateen for a more formal setting, to a cotton twill or canvas for a more understated look and cotton stretch for a really fitted look. Cotton suits can be fairly unstructured and in some instances can be made without the use of any canvas interlining or internal lining which will add cooling benefits on that blistering hot day. For a more casual setting, why not opt for a nice pair of tailored cotton shorts and a nicely fitted shirt and sports jacket.  This look is fun and very smart.

The Wool Blend Suit

No, I’m not talking about polyester.  A true wool blend suit should be mixed with other natural fibres.  Wool and Mohair (goat wool) make a beautiful pairing. Mohair is finer, yet stronger than wool, and when it is woven with a light weight wool it adds strength to an otherwise lightweight fabric.  Mohair also assists with wrinkle recovery, so unlike linen a wool and mohair blend is a little more rigid and keeps it shape longer.  The best thing about a wool and mohair blend is the beautiful texture that occurs in the weave when two fibres are died at the same time.  The colour of the cloth appears to have a slight fleck in it, which makes it a little more interesting than a solid colour cloth.

Whilst we’re talking about wool blend, we should also talk about wool and silk.  Similar to mohair, silk is added to lightweight wool in order to increase the strength of the cloth, but silk also adds a touch of lustre.  A wool and silk blend has a very subtle sheen and beautiful drape that is perfect for that summer cocktail suit.

The Superfine Wools

If it is a more formal look that you are after, then you cant go past the super fine wool collection.  Similar to a cotton thread count, wool is graded by the density of the weave and ranges from Super 100 to a Super 180.  The super 100 is a little coarser and tends to be heavier in weight, whilst a Super180 is very fine and smooth, with an almost silk like lustre. However if it is a summer dinner suit that you are after, I would recommend a Super 140 or Super 150 in a mid weight cloth.  This will offer the benefits of pure wool breathability, a beautiful drape and good wrinkle recovery.  If you are opting for the dinner suit, it is quite important to take note of the silk satin that is being used on the lapel and trousers, you will want to make sure that there is enough contrast between the cloth and the satin and that they don’t blend in too much.  Remember it’s all about the detail and you don’t want to loose that beautiful contrast by choosing an overly lustrous cloth that doesn’t allow those satin lapels to shine.

Friday 15th January 2016

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